I caught my first wave today (since buying my bodyboard months ago) at Hermosa Beach. What a rush.
I paddled out into the ocean. And a moment later I saw a good-sized wave beginning to swell. I turned my board around and started kicking. Hard. The wave took me before I knew what was happening. I rode it out to the shore.
Last weekend I went bodyboarding and didn't catch a single wave. It was incredibly disappointing. But redemption came today.
I'm a beginner, but I think I made a huge leap. On May 6th, 2004 I wrote this in my blog:
"The other day, I was watching Step Into Liquid and I remember a guy in the film said, 'once you catch your first wave, that's it. You're in. You've caught the surfing bug. It's like the mafia. You can't get out.'"
